pot;overountainpeakontheleft;ingdoions
totherightonitsbackaderuggedsquarelinesliketho
………………………………
第109节
seinthepaintingofni
ytinlin;sothattheadeaholloudandoned
ltileafeduckherockseddodderthistookusquitea
fenthedoddergrehehill;likearias
hangingdoarockthereddodderfloadeastrikingntrasttothe
thepondundeeath
lookingatit;oneuldigineoneselftransportedtosofairyregionthis
undertheeaves;anddiscussedbetapavilion;
ershut;andastoneinscription;
”alsdropandewhere
e;p
aaginaryuniversetolive
onenightttheeaves;brokeninto
pietobejealousevenofsucha
littleeffortofourohshedtears
efropublicbuildingisthepersonaltouchthat;
andthetiandthoughtedesignsandinteriorderationsare
notsothingthatanar;anditis
onlyecan
beeanartandapleasurebothshenfuandlilihistenderlovefor
thesllthingsoflife;andgiveingeniousadviceonthetrainingofflohe
arrangentoffloing;theartof
kingonasuperbviehatuldgointoapainting;thehanging
ofsentofchairs;includingliliionofaheated
deskinerit
anifestlyiossibletogointoallthesedetailsofinteriorderation;
suffientofurtyardsandthescholars5studios;andin
thearrangentofvases;theessentialideaisthebeautyofsilicitynyofthe
sadetolookoutonasllcleanurtyard;;hevery
eodintofquietudeitselfintheddleofthaturtyardstandjustthree
ofthoserhytharkofseaerare
speallbushofbaoosharesoloved
becauseofthefinenessoftheirlinesperhapsintheh
glazedtilesinbaoopatteasbars;givingjusttherestsuggestionofthe
existenceofaershousesoutside
theprincipleofsurpriseall
residenanshogardentheenglishword”garden”gives
anentirelyerroneousideaofthechineseyuanfor”garden”suggestsalawnandan
infinitevarietyoffloandtidytosuitchinesetastethe
chineseyuansuggestsfirstofallaore
artisticallyplannedthannature;butstillabitofnatureitself;ounds;
creeks;bridges;aroe
floanstructures;thebridges;pavilions;longorridors;irregularrockeries;andsweepingroofs;so
perfectlybelongingtothesceneryastobeeahittherearenoevencut
hedges;noperfetricrowsliningavenuesasif
inbattlefortion;andnostraightpavents梟oneofallthoseelentsthat
ntributetokeversaillessouglyinchineseeyeseveryurves;
irregularity;ncealntandsuggestion
nochinesensionallosidertolookthroughtheirongatesatalongdrive;
forthatentfacingthegate;wesee
perhapsasllurtyardoraundgivingnoideasoeveroftheexpansiveness
ofspaceinside;andleadingonestepbystepintonewerandbiggerviews;ina
ntinualseriesofsurprisesandastonishntsforallinthe
large;andshoallthereislittlepossibilityofgainingabirdseye
vieheaglance;andifthereherehingleftforthe
iginationthechinesegardenischaracterizedbystudieddisorderliness;h
aloneakeoneigihegardentobelarger
thanitis
thereissothingauntingtoreligiousfervourandsacreddevotionwhena
cultivatedrichchinesescholarbeginsplanningforhisgardentheacuntofchi
piauchia16021645isinterestingasshohisspirit
inthebeginning;is;andsofriendstold
rhouse;ididnot
thinkseriouslyofthesesuggestions;butafterae
alone;anditseedindeedishouldhaveapavilionhereandasuerhousethere
beforeihadfinishedthefirststage;neselvesupon;andthey
estheyy
drea;andaneyiginationhenceinterestgrew
reandreintenseeverydayandioing
andebacklateatnight;andleaveanydosticbusinesstobeattendedtounder
thelalightearlyintheing;ypillohefirst
raysoftheandgotupandaskedservanttogoeonaboat;and
althoughitileoff;ipatienttogettotheplacethisntinued
throughr;rainorshine;andneitherthebitingldnorthe
srchingsunuldrestrainnefrot;forthereasingleday
outjnthespotthenifeltunderpilloyney
annoyedoveritbutthesp
………………………………
第110节
otioreandre
stonesandterialhenceforthelasttypurseisalpty;andi
havebeenillandgothree
pavilions;fourrridors;tbankntsingeneral;whore
thereistoochspaceiputinathing;istoocroakeahing;
out;enttoodiffusei
tightenitabit;isdifficultto;andisleveliintroducealittleunevennessitislikeagooddoctorcuringapatient;usingboth
nourishingandexcitativedicines;orlikeagoodgeneralinthefield;usingboth
norlandsurprisetacticsagainitislikeasterpainterathisallowing
asingledeadstroke;orlikeagreatittingasingle
unhaioussentence
hay;irregularity;surprise;neofthe
prinsofchineseart
iiieatinganddrinking
thequestionhasoftenbeenaskedastotheanshatallthe
ediblethingsonthisearthcrabsbypreference;andofteneatbarksby
neotherofourinventionsinfoodoo
overpopulatedandfaneistoonforusnottoeateverythinganlayour
handsonanditstandstoreasonthatinthispositivelyexhaustiveexperinton
edibles;bleduponiortantdisveries;asstscientifir
dicaldisverieshavebeenstuleduponforohing;he
gictonicandbuildingqualitiesofginseng;forogivepersonal
testinyastoitsbeingthestenduringandstenergygivingtonicknoo
nkind;distinguishedbytheslo
suediportance;edlythe
onlytrulyoivorousanilsonearth;andsolongasourteethlast;weshould
ntinuetooedayadentistdisverthathe
bestteethasanationgiftedine;thereisnoreason
eparticulartiofouationallifesuddenlydisverthat
roastedbeetlesa&dfiiedbeeschrysalisaregreatdelicaciestheonlythingwehave
notdisveredandongolsuldnotpersuadeustoeat
cheese;andtheeuropeansdonothaveagreaterchanceofdoingso
itisuselesstouselogiatterofourfood;inedby
prejudion;the
softshelledclaaar€naria9andtheediblessel;tilusedulisthespeciesof
thesetolluscsarethesaonbothsidesoftheusselsare
eatenfreely;butnotcla;ericanside;
acrdingtotheauthorityofdrcharleshly》;july;
1928drtoentionsthefactthatfloundersfetchhighpricesin
englandandinbostonbutarensidered”notfittoeat”bynewfoundlandvillagers
usselssericans;but
eatoystersraericansdoitisuseless;forinstance;foranybodyto
nvincethatsnakesattasteslikechickenihavelivedinchinafortyyears
yrelativesdosotalesofeatingsnakes
travelfasterthantalesofeatingchicken;butactuallyorechickensandbetterchickensthantheuchacuriositytothechinese
asitistotheforeigners
allonecansayisthatancan
takeanythingoffachinesetableofnscienceine
dianrtalstoaneat
nuntilhekno
faneanssoofushavebeenforioeatbabies梐nd
eventhisstbehunlyrare梑ut;thankgod;rahe
englisheattheirbeef
ifthereisanything;itisneitherreligionnorleaing;butfood
eatingasoneofthefeanlifethisquestionof
attitudeisveryiortant;forunlessaboutito
lifteatingandokingintoanartthedifferenof
foodisrepresentedineuropebythefrenchandtheenglishthefrencheat
enthusiastically;heenglisheatapologeticallythechinesenationalgenius
decidedlyleanstoatteroffeedingourselves
thedangerofnottakingfoodseriouslyandallotodegenerateintoaslipshod
businessybestudiedintheenglishnationallifeiftheyhadknoastefor
foodtheirlanguagetheenglishlanguagedoesnotprovideawordfor
cuisine:theycallitjust”oking”theyhavenoproperheyjustcall
hioktheydonotspeakabouttheiu;butknoarecalled
”dishes”andtheyhavenoet:theyjustcallhigreedygut”intheir
nurseryrhysthetruthis;theenglishdonotadtthattheyhaveastochno
stochisfitfoversationunlessithappenstobe”sick9or”aching”theresult
isthatansto
theenglishnd梚odestgestures;theenglishncanhardlyventuretotalk
aboutthe”food”ofhis”ok”pairingthebeautyofhislanguagewhen
hardpressedbyhisfrenightbeutterbeteeththat
”thatpuddingisaatterrestnowifapuddingisgood
itisgoodforsodefinitereasons;andabouttheseprobletheenglishndoes
notbotherhielfalltheenglishareinterestedinishoselves
againstinfluenza;ashbovril;andsavethedoctorsbills
nodevelopanationalculinaryartunlessyouareodiscussit
andexchangeyouropinionsonitthefi
………………………………
第111节
rstnditionofleainghooeatistotalk
aboutitonlyinasocietyentinquireaftertheir
oks9health;insteadoftalkingabouttheher;cantheartofcuisinebe
developednofoodisreallyenjoyedunlessitiskeenlyanticipated;discussed;eaten
andthennteduponpreanabadsteak
froheirpulpitsandscholarsshouldeessaysontheculinaryartasthechinese
scholarsdolongbeforeinds;anticipateitasasecretpleasuretobesharedeofourdosestfriends;
andynephewhas
justbroughtsospecialvinegarfrohinkiangandarealnankingsaltedduck
froaoyuchai;”orthis;”thisistheendofjune;andifyoudonte;you
tasteanothershadtillnexty”longbeforetheautuonrises;arealscholar;
likeliliselfnfesses;oneyforthecrabs;
decideuponanhistoricalplacehecrabdinnerhhisfriends
underthedautuonorinau;negotiateh
soofhisfriendstobringgoveortuanfangscellar;andditate
uponitastheenglishditateupontheirchaionsberonlyinthis
spiritcanthetteroffeedingourselvesbeelevatedintothelevelofanart
edofoureatingungpopork”and”kiang
beancurdinengland;aeakorgalshycutletwouldbe
uniginablehinking;”buthefailed
tonotethatgoodfood;espeushroo;unts
angtherealjoysofasilerurallifethechinesepoets;oreutilitarian
philosophy;havefranklysungaboutthe”ncedperchandshunvegetablesoup”of
theiativehothisthoughtisregardedassopoeticthatofficialsintheirpetition
forresignationostelegant
expressionaatterofrellectionofthe
keensensualpleasuresofouristheloyaltyto
arikuffhen
andstoubutthearicansandthegesititnyaricans;
andse;buttheyit
thatthiskesthehinkofho;norheyputitintheirpoetry1
theseriousnessanywaysanyone
berdrearofanychinesenovelwillbe
struenuoftaiyii
astrikingfactisthefrequencyofestinesand”belly”inchinese
poetry:e;”tfyriceboall;thefishis
deliyestinesorpaoyiihadat
dnightchengpanchiaoapotheosizedricengeeinhislettertohisbrother:
onlddays;abowloffried
riosteffective
ansofingupoldpeopleandthepoorinyourdaysofleisure;sakes
deofbrokenrice;orok”slipslopngeeandholdthebowo
handsandeatitoing;thisake
youralasalasithinkfllbeeafarrforthereinderof
days
thechineseacceptfoodastheyacceptsex;enandlifeingeneralnogreat
englishpoetoreroeaokbook;heyregardas
belongingoutsidetherealofliteratureandhyoftheeffortsofauntsusanonly
butthegreatpoetdratistlilinsideritbeneathhisdignitytoe
abouttheokingofshrooandallkindsofvegetarianandnonvegetarianfoods
anothergreatpoetandsei;eaooking;besides
ostes
describedtheenglishbutler;asancarryinghielfhdignityand
understandinginhisprofessionbuthgheone
stlikelytoeaboutenglishfood;evidentlycannoteit;andnohopeistobe
expeindsanatolefranceight
haveleftussoushroo;
possiblyinhisintiteletters;butidoubtverychherhehasleftitaspartof
hisliteraryheritage
teuropeanokingoneisthatfood
foritstexttheelastircrispeffectithasonourteeth;ase;
flavourandlourlilihatheocrabs;becausetheyhadthe
binationoffragran
understood;butagreatpartofthepopularityofbaooshootsisduetothefine
resistanbooshootsii
pro
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